Moss Myths

Moss misconceptions abound.   Is it true a rolling stone gathers no moss? To better understand moss, I asked David Spain with Moss and Stone Gardens, Raleigh, NC, to enlighten us with the truth about mosses, dispelling many common moss myths.

 

Moss prefers acidic or nutrient poor soils. True or False?

False -Most mosses are not particular about the pH or nutrients of the substrates on which they grow.

 

It would be more accurate to understand that mosses thrive where there is little or no competition, which often occurs in acidic and poor, compacted soils, or for that matter, on stone.

Moss only grows in the shade. True or False?

False -Mosses have the greatest range of light exposure than any other land plant.

This doesn’t mean that all mosses can tolerate sun, only certain species can. Mosses are found growing in all climates and exposures, from full blazing desert sun, to almost undetectable amounts of light found in caves. Mosses can also be found on all 7 continents.

Moss only grows on the north side of trees. True and False?

False – Moss does grow on the north side of trees, and it also grows on the south, east, and west sides of trees, as well.

Moss may grow only on a north side of a tree if that’s the shadiest location as the sun tracks the sky. If there is something else providing shade (or moisture), the moss will grow in those places just as well.

 

Moss will invade my garden if I am growing moss on my property. True or False?

False – Moss spores are everywhere, even if there aren’t any mosses on your property. The spores travel on the wind to extreme distances, therefore proximity doesn’t mean density.

Moss will grow anywhere the conditions are appropriate for successful germination and can develop into a mature plant.

You can convert your moss-infested lawn into a moss lawn by letting nature take it’s course. True or False?

False - This is very unlikely to happen satisfactorily without intervention.

In most regions, the conditions necessary for moss to dominate vascular plants isn’t adequate. For example, in rain forests or areas like the Pacific Northwest, moss can over grow the under brush of existing plants; the abundant moisture gives the moss enough growing potential that it can blanket everything.

For other regions, something else needs to tip the scale in favor of the mosses, like abundant moisture, in this case I am referring to irrigation by man. To be more specific, one would have to water the moss lightly throughout the day in order to give it maximum growth potential, but not enough to give the existing plants (grasses, weeds) enough to sustain themselves.

Moss needs to be kept moist. True or False?

False – Despite this common impression, moss is actually one of the most drought tolerant plants. Also, there are a number of species that need regular periods of dryness to survive.

Mosses need moisture to reproduce sexually, but not asexually. Water is needed for photosynthesis, but not for survival. Moist areas allow for faster growth, but isn’t necessary for existence. Acrocarps mosses tend to be more drought tolerant than Pleurocarps.

 

Spreading or spraying diluted yogurt, buttermilk, beer, or manure tea will promote moss to grow. True or False?

False -The key here is not what substance will create moss in an area, but what allows moss to develop. The most important things to allow mosses to develop are moisture and lack of competition. Competition can be other plants, debris, or loose and irregular surfaces. Moisture is always needed to begin moss establishment. When mosses are beginning to colonize in an area, moisture is what allows the young mosses to perform photosynthesis, which in turn allows for growth.

Leaf litter, pine straw, twigs, loose stones, and such, make it harder for moss to find a stable substrate on which to attach. Moss prefers to have direct contact with whatever it is spreading onto; therefore, a smooth substrate will allow the mosses easier contact.

Mosses do not draw nutrients or sustenance from the substrates they are attached too; therefore, anything you apply to the substrate is not utilized by the moss since it does not have the root structure necessary to benefit from such applications.

Blending moss and buttermilk into a slurry is the best way to grow moss. True or False?

False -Although widely reported to work effectively, this technique is usually met with failure and a moldy mess.

The best way to grow moss is by division of a colony or fragmentation, buttermilk is not needed.

 

 

 

Moss spores will add to my seasonal allergies. True or False?

False -Moss spores may be as common as mold spores or pollen at times, but they are generally non-allergenic.

You can be allergic to anything, but the likelihood that moss or it’s spores will give you allergies, is extremely low.

If you walk on moss, it will die.  True or False?

False – Most mosses tolerate foot traffic, but it’s a question of how much foot traffic?

As a non vascular system, mosses don’t need protection from being compressed. With some foot traffic, their cellulose remains flexible, allowing mosses to be compressed without the kind of damage that occurs when vascular plants are trod on. The key difference is that their flexible structure and small scale are susceptible to breaking, if stretched. As such, walking flat-footed is greatly tolerated, while running or shuffling isn’t.

Moss is a parasitic plant. True or False?

False – When moss grows on trees, wood, or shingles, moss does not feed on the material it attaches too.

Mosses may keep substrates they are growing on damp for longer periods of time, and thus, this moisture retention is capable of deteriorating some non-living materials.

If you have moss growing on your property it means you also have molds. True or False?

False – The misconception that moss and molds are related isn’t true. Moss and molds are rarely found together, except when molds are attacking the moss as they might anything organic. With molds present, moss dies or decays, as does most anything else it attacks. If you have heathy moss, you do not have mold.

Spanish moss, Reindeer moss, club moss, sea moss, Irish moss and Scotch moss belong to the Phylum of Bryophyta. True or False?

False – Including moss in the common name, does not mean it’s a true moss.

Spanish moss is an epiphyte, Reindeer moss is a lichen,club moss is a lycophyte, sea moss is an algae, Irish and Scotch mosses are vascular plants that look similar to mosses.

Growing moss is beneficial to my garden.  True or False?

True - Moss is a beneficial addition to the garden in many ways: it retains moisture content, similar to mulching, it is superior to mulches in that it is a living layer that processes nutrients and contributes organic material, it does not become compacted, and doesn’t need replacing annually, and it provides a healthy habitat for beneficial insects and promotes the evolutionary symbiosis of
mycelium and plant roots.

Moss attracts ticks, fleas, and mosquitos. True or False?

False – Ticks prefer tall plants, where they can perch to better position themselves to catch a ride on their next meal. Fleas don’t dwell in moss, and mosquitos need plants to provide shelter from wind and sun. Mosses are too short and dense to support resting mosquitos.

 

 

And finally, I needed to know –

A rolling stone gathers no moss. True or False?

True – A rolling stone gathers no moss. If the stone is rolling, moss grows too slowly to get started on it and the friction of rolling would abrade or wear off any mosses that were on it.

 

 

 

There you have it! If you want to learn a truth about moss missed here, let us know!

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Moss and metals – the ins and outs of moss

At Moss and Stone Gardens, we are often asked about the type of containers best used for growing moss.  As you consider the container or substrate selection for your moss dish, please keep the following in mind.

In – plastics, ceramics, seasoned concrete, stone, wood, soil, fabric or glass.

Out – galvanized or zinc plated metals, copper, pressure treated lumber, chemically unstable materials.

The low down from moss expert, David Spain:

Even though mosses don’t have a root system to draw nutrients or liquids from substrates they are growing on, they are still capable of conduction.  This means that direct contact with moisture, which is also in contact with a substrate or material, can transmit dissolved particles to the moss. One of the things mosses are sensitive to is heavy metals and some chemicals.

I have observed a healthy and spreading carpet of moss, stop in its tracks, as it approaches the drip line of a deck constructed with pressure treated wood. When water comes into contact with the pressure treated wood, some of the chromated copper arsenic will leach into the water and be dispersed. This will have negative effects on any moss that is in contact with this contaminated water.

The same effect can be observed with other materials like zinc, which is attached in strips on roofs to retard moss growth. Having said that, I have also observed moss grow on top of, or over pressure treated wood.  Admittedly it was always decades old pressure treated wood and not new. However, there is a difference, in terms of the moss being “upstream” from the contamination source, growing on top of pressure treated wood, is a little different than growing beneath it.

To investigate further, mosses living on top of soil that is in a pressure treated planter will fair better than ones planted at the foot of the same container. They are buffered by the soil and basically, upstream from the water that contacts the  pressure treated wood.

It is also possible to have soil in a zinc coated container with mosses growing on the soil, but there will certainly be a zone of peril where soil stops and zinc begins.

In a container using an inappropriate material for mosses, good draining soil and drainage holes would be essential to keep the mosses downstream of contaminants.

Damage to mosses from zinc or pressure treated wood may not be visible for weeks or more depending on the species, water volume and contamination levels, the metabolism rates of mosses are very slow and so visual evidence of damage takes time.

In summary, it’s best to stay on the save side and use what’s in for moss – plastics, ceramics, seasoned concrete, stone, wood, soil, fabric, or glass.

Editor: Helen  Yoest

Watering mosses

Dear David,

I had just about given up on growing moss until I started using bird netting to keep debris and animals out. One myth I’m still not sure about, is if tap water kills moss.
Last year I watered a lot, with no net and the results were not very good. This year I am letting my moss dry out and keeping a net on it and it is doing much better, but I’m not sure of how harmful tap water is, and if I should think about watering it.

Guy

Dear Guy,

We recommend using rainwater for the best results, you can also age your tap water to reduce the chloramines. Tap water is different for each city and we can’t speak for each one; however our experience in North Carolina has been that tap water is fine to use straight from the hose, without detriment to the mosses.

We have achieved superior results in vitality with higher quality water sources like harvested rainwater, so water chemistry does matter. Pay attention to volume, frequency, and time of day, as well for the optimum results. Drenching can lead to problems, frequent misting is better. Watering in the morning or afternoon is better than in the evening. Depending on the species your growing, regular drying out may be required for long-term health. Avoid creating a constant wet then dry cycle over the course of hot summer days.  It’s better to keep moist all day, then dry all day, this avoids having the moss go into dormancy multiple times in a 24 hour period which uses as much energy as it produces, resulting in a net loss for the mosses growth.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

David Spain

Editor: Helen  Yoest

Mosses for sun

Dear David,

Can you advise me which moss prefers sunlight? I have a path and the 10 foot stitch of it that gets about 4 hrs of direct noon sunshine keeps dying out while the rest of the shaded path looks lush and green with moss. Which variety I have I am not sure. I live in northern Illinois. Thanks much. Love your pictures. Roxanne.

Dear Roxanne,

Giving you the names of sun tolerant mosses is easy, the hard part is identifying them. Entodon seductrix is the top of the list.  Entodon seductrix is a pleurocarp that grows on soil, wood, and stone. Other sun tolerant mosses include Climacium americanum, Leucobryum glaucum, Ceratodon purpureus and Bryum argentium. These are listed in order of usefulness for your application.

One way to find a good fit is to look for mosses growing in the same conditions you have.

Good luck Roxanne and please follow our blog for more useful tips!

David Spain

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Moss – squirrels, birds, and other moss meddling critters

Dear David,

The squirrels have been digging up my attempts to grow a moss lawn.  What do you suggest?  I have so many unpleasant thought about ways to eat the squirrel.

Vance

Dear Vance,

I feel your pain. squirrels can be a troublesome animal in a garden.

There are several approaches to deter squirrels and you may need to incorporate one or more, to be effective. Once the problem is under control, the squirrel population seems to remember the areas they are unwelcome.

The first line of defense is with netting. This technique is effective and is left in place permanently.

Using 3/8″ grid netting, (see above) sold as pond netting, you cut to size and cover the area being disturbed, pin down using landscape staples. I recommend cutting the staples and modifying the cut end into a hook. This is easier to install and it gives you twice the number of pins for the same price.

Start by pinning the edges, then pin the netting in the middle, especially where the terrain is lower and the netting is lifting above the surface. Contour the netting to the moss, making as much contact as possible. The netting will practically disappear after installation and the moss will grow through, and incorporate the netting into, the colony. This technique is also used to hold down newly transplanted mosses and in particular where water run-off or a slope is present.

I have also used a material called tulle which is used for wedding veils and such. It can be purchased at any fabric store. There are several weaves and the best is a 1/8″ size double threaded in matt black. Although not as strong as the pond netting, it’s more effective against birds. The installation technique, and it’s being left in place, is the same as with the pond netting.

The third option is again using the pond netting, but the netting is suspended 4 to 5 inches above the moss. This height range makes it difficult for the squirrel to get under or climb on top and push it down to gain access to the ground. I make stakes from non-pressure treated wood about 8 to 10 inches in length to stretch the netting from and allow the ends of the netting to drape down at the edges. Obviously this is an eyesore and temporary, but some squirrels are attracted to a specific area and will chew through anything even metal to access  their favorite spots. I have seen squirrels return to an area over and over, tearing up the moss and digging for their bounty. This method seems to be enough of an agitation to deal with persistent visitors.

I have also had success using animal repellent products, such as i must garden either by itself, or in conjunction, with the above methods.

I hope this information helps.

Knowing your Acrocarp from your Pleurocarp

Our main mission at Moss and Stone Gardens‘ blog, is to educate those desiring to learn more about mosses.  Our goal is to make it easy for you to understand mosses; to take the mystery out of moss – not the mystic.

As a landscape design group specializing in moss and stone gardens, we work with homeowners and design professionals designing with moss.

Particularly today, in what appears to be a movement towards moss, as designers and gardeners are looking for sustainable, shade loving options, either as a lawn replacement or as a sculptural backdrop to accent the grounds of commercial or residential properties, we feel it is even more important to help with this education.  As such, this is the first in a series to educate the reader about mosses on the most basic level — an introduction — to begin to guide you through the movement towards moss.

INTRODUCTION
All mosses can be classified as 2 types:  Acrocarpous and Pleurocarpous

Recently, I asked David Spain, our moss expert, to describe the two types of mosses we are so often writing about.  I hope you learn as much about Acrocarps and Pleurocarps as I did.  If you have further questions, please leave a comment and David will get back with you.

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Dear David, a.k.a. Moss Rock,

How do I get moss to grow between the stepping stones. I have flagstone. I have shaded it from about 60% of the sun, watered it regularly and added sulfur to the soil. I get a little moss and some lichen, but I want more moss.  And what do you suggest for zone 8?

Jenn

Dear Jenn,

The secret is out, growing moss takes only watering. Mosses are extremely drought tolerant, so they don’t need water to survive, but they do need water to grow. Mosses only perform photosynthesis when they are hydrated, otherwise they happily remain dormant until moisture returns.

The key to establishing moss anywhere is to water.  As to how much and when, see ourblog post on watering mosses.

Look for pluerocarp mosses and transplant between the stones, then water until they fill in, that’s it! If you don’t know your pluerocarp from your acrocarp see our blog post.

Pay attention to your sunlight conditions and look for mosses growing in the same exposure to better your success, collect different species and mix them to further ensure one species will like the conditions.

A note about moss between close set stones, this tends to be an area where drying out occurs quickly, so watering techniques are most critical, so keep ‘em moist, but don’t drown! Good luck and send us pics of your success!

P.S. The photo used in this post was taken at the Moss Farm and while this is the extreme when thinking of planting moss between flagstone, we used the photo to show off…I mean to show a point.  We like doing moss in a big way.  Use more moss, less flagstone.  ~Helen

Acrocarpous mosses have an upright growth habit.

As defined by Encyclopedia.com,  Acrocarpous Moss – A type of moss in which the archegonia (i.e. female sex organs), and hence the capsules are borne at the tips of stems or branches.  Acrocarpous mosses may branch extensively; once they have fruited, branches take over the erect growth.

Acrocarps are usually unbranched and erect, forming a mounded colony.

Acrocarps are slower growing than Pleurocarps.

The sporophytes of the Acrocarps emerge from the tips of the plant.

Acrocarps do not regenerate from fragments as quickly as Pleurocarps.

Weeds are less likely to invade Acrocarps due to the thickness and tight packed stems.

Common Acrocarps for moss gardens are; Polytrichum commune,

Dicranum scoparium, Campylopus introflexus, and Luecobryum glaucum.

 

 

Pleurocapous mosses have a prostrate growth habit.

As defined by Encyclopedia.com, Pleurocarpous - A type of moss in which the female sex organs (archegonia) and capsules are borne on short, lateral branches, and not at the tips of branches. Pleurocarpous mosses tend to form spreading carpets rather than erect tufts.

Pleurocarps are freely branching in a chaotic fashion.

Pleurocarps spread out branches from the colony in a creeping fashion.

The sporophytes of the Pleurocarps emerge mid stem.

Most Pleurocarps grow faster than Acrocarps.

Pleurocarps quickly regenerate from broken fragments.

Pleurocarps quick attachment to stone and growth rate makes them better for colonizing hard substrates.

Maintenance of Pleurocarps is easier due to their matting tendencies and low even profile, blowing debris off of them is easier.

Pleurocarps can be used as a nursery for Acrocarps, once an area is colonized by these pioneer mosses, the slower growing Acrocarps can more easily colonize.

Common Pleurocarps for moss garden are; Thuidium delecatulum, Plagiomnium cuspidatum, Climacium americanum, Bryandersonia illecebra, Entodon seductrix, Hypnum cupressiforme, and Hypnum imponens.

As we move you toward mosses, we hope you visit with us again and feel free to visit our website at Moss and Stone Gardens to send us an email.

 

 

Order your Moss Rocks!  online today.  Moss is grand.  Moss is green.  Moss is good. Make the most of it; order Moss Rocks! today.